Finally: Totto Ramen

I was determined: it was my final day in NYC (my plane left JFK at 10pm) and it gave me a narrow window of opportunity to attempt to eat a bowl of Totto Ramen. I don't even know what the big deal about Totto was, except that the same owners already had a successful yakitori restaurant in midtown, and there is a perpetual crush at the door. If anything the crowds can be explained by the fact that the ramen-ya barely seats 16 people.

The place opened for lunch right at 12pm and by the time I arrived there at 11:45am there was already (surprise) a crowd out front. I wrote my name on the clipboard hanging on the front door, and joined the crowd (well, not literally; no one would talk to me, lest I might steal their place in line). Luckily I was within the first 20-odd people to write their names down, as I was seated in the first wave of customers, all on their lunch breaks. I hopped up to the bar and placed my bag, hat and scarf (hey it's cold on those Manhattan streets) on the little wire rack above our heads.

Totto's ramen seems to specialize in a chicken broth shoyu ramen. I ordered the Totto Spicy Ramen ($10.25) which is basically their chicken shoyu (called Paitan) ramen with a big ball of their own chili garlic oil/paste (rayu) dolloped on top. The noodles are made in-house and are the thin straight kind. If you order the thick wavy noodles, the chef reaches below the counter and pulls out a plastic-wrapped package of noodles from a box.


The toppings are minimal: a few thin pieces of charsiu, some bean sprouts, a bunch of sliced scallions and the requisite nori square. But the rayu chili garlic blob in the middle was what elevated the basic ingredients to a thoroughly enjoyable bowl. I find that most things labelled spicy fall in to one of two categories: either it's got nice "spicy" taste but is not actually that hot, or it's so hot that you can't really taste anything but pain. The latter is far more rare in restaurants than the former (unless it's a "eat this and your meal is free" kind of attention-getting gimmick) but even more rare is the foodstuff which can combine the best of both: hot enough to really kick your ass but with enough actual flavour to make it worth the pain. Totto's rayu has this in spades, with a nutty garlicky aftertaste that lingered for longer than I would have liked were I a single man.

I have to admit that I am beginning to really like the hakata-style thinner noodles, especially when they are made just downstairs from where you are eating them, and they are cooked to perfect al dente.

In spite of the repeated failed attempts to get in to this place, once I was in, I was treated with great service both from the wait staff and the ramen chefs working directly in front of me. Friendly and efficient, the service accompanied me through the meal in less than 30 minutes without me feeling rushed. All the better for the next round of customers waiting at the door!