The Hungry Musician

Something Old, Something New

2011-11-04T23:56:00.000-07:00

The other night, kids are asleep (for a short time) and parents are downstairs on their respective laptops. Hopefully I can honestly say I was doing work and not idly reading blogs. I put some music on the stereo to work to (an actual physical Compact Disc^tm on a real stereo system!) and it was pointed out to me that I had chosen the same album to listen to maybe seven out of the last ten times. "Why do you always choose the same music?" I wondered why also. The album was "The Paul Motian Trio at The Village Vanguard" which was the first one by that band that I ever heard. Since then I've managed to collect (I believe) every commercial recording they have released. Although I'd be hard pressed to choose a favourite recording of theirs, at least one of them would have to be on any desert island disc list I could compose. World-renowned drummer and mentor Dylan VanDerSchyff once encapsulated what they do (my paraphrase): "They take all the building blocks of music and dismantle them all to nothing, so that they can build them back up themselves." Likewise Brooklyn-based bassist and author Chris Tarry explained "their music doesn't go very wide, but it runs incredibly deep." (again, my paraphrase) Anyway, the point is, that trio has profoundly affected my view of music, both as an artist and as a listener. But that still didn't address why I listened to that album almost exclusively in the last few weeks. I'm not particularly unique in having a large music collection: mostly CD's, a few hundred vinyl, the rest in (compressed) digital form. Yet time and time again I find myself returning to the same few albums to listen to. If the music is strong enough, hearing those familiar sounds again can reaffirm the effect they had on my musicianship, and inspire me all over again.

What does all this have to do with ramen? Let's find out.

Ladies luuv it!

After many months (maybe years) of talking about it, I finally had a chance to revisit the ramen-ya that started the whole Vancouver ramen craze: Kintaro! How that chance presented itself is another long and sorted story involving the current Vancouver pizza craze (Pizzeria Farina, we shall meet... eventually) What do I order when we're seated at Kintaro? The usual! I think I've talked before about the strange yet delicious (and polygamous) marriage of cultures that is cheese ramen; well, Kintaro was my introduction to it, and now that G-Men is closed, it is my only remaining connection to it.

Eating cheese ramen at Kintaro after a long hiatus was like coming home again! Yum. Just like I remembered, a light (not too salty) yet rich (thanks to the cheese) miso broth, tender (always order the fatty cut) and flavourful charsiu, and thick chewy noodles. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. There's nothing wrong with revisiting music that you know is worth it, and there's nothing wrong with ordering another cheese ramen! Well, except maybe if you're on a diet, or lactose intolerant.

But this whole exercise reminded me that I have much more music at my disposal that I don't listen to, but is certainly worth studying and enjoying. Likewise there are many different bowls of ramen to consume! Yesterday I had another ramen opportunity, thanks to some schedule shuffling. Ramen Jinya (in the old Ezo-giku location near the library) apparently has some lineage in Japan via a robata restaurant in Ebisu. But the ramen component somehow arrived in Vancouver by way of Los Angeles, and is owned by the same people who run Ebi-ten down the street. Family tree aside, I tried their shio tonkotsu ramen, which is in the Southern Hakata (Fukuoka) style that places like Santouka do so well.

Almost forgot to take a pic before digging in!

I definitely enjoyed the fried onion topping which is not something I see often on ramen. The charsiu was ok but a little skimpy, and with the add-on shoyu tamago (egg), the whole bowl came to over $12, so for what it was it felt a little overpriced. It comes in a very deep bowl, so although it may contain a regular size serving, it appears to be a small portion when served. The noodles themselves were accurately made in the Hakata style: thin, straight and al dente.

Although I'll never put away my Paul Motian Trio records (among others), I've been making myself listen to both albums I own but rarely play and to new music I've not heard before. I'll list some of them with a few thoughts. In the former category:

"Heartcore" Kurt Rosenwinkel. I thought that a jazz record produced by Q-Tip would have more of the flavour of the hip-hop legend. Instead it's just a good jazz record with really hard melodies and harmonies, and very rhythmically straight (stiff?) drum programs. I wish that someone could treat the drums in Rosenwinkel's band the way he approaches the guitar: the long sinewy melodies, the post-post-post harmonies. I don't know if that makes sense, but the closest I've heard so far is Eric Harland on "The Remedy" the live Rosenwinkel stuff.
"Time Out Of Mind" Bob Dylan. I put this on again after reading Daniel Lanois' autobiography. Learning about the process was interesting, and attaching the sounds to the stories was fun. Reminds me of the "Advanced" theory which uses Dylan as a poster child.
"Which Way is East" Charles Lloyd. A beautiful double CD of duets with Billy Higgins. I'd love to know the whole story about this album, I believe that it is one of Higgins' last recordings. They each play a huge assortment of instruments throughout, but there are enough sax/drum duets to keep my jazz side satisfied.
"Notes From a Drummer" William Thomas Ensemble. One of my desert island discs is a live recording of Brad Turner playing trumpet with three Portland musicians (John Gross, Tom Wakeling and William Thomas) who came up to Vancouver for week of playing. That week was my first introduction to Thomas' drumming, and my only opportunity to see it in person. The recording really resonates with me, and Thomas has a unique, subtle and supportive approach to drumming that I would love to learn to emulate. When I discovered his own solo recording (via Seattle record label Origin) I jumped at the chance to hear him lead a larger ensemble. The album is a showcase for his interesting compositions much more so than his drumming, but I still really enjoy hearing someone play with such maturity and depth without an ounce or showiness (is that a word?)

Ok, I'll run out of time and energy for the latter category, but here are a couple of new purchases on the playlist:

"Full Circle" Graham Haynes. As a lifelong Roy Haynes fan, I have to admit I took the efforts of his son on trumpet and cornet a bit for granted. As if it was somehow easier (and therefore didn't count as much) to play music when your father is a living legend of the genre. But this was the first time I felt like the younger Haynes sounded like he's developed his own strong voice. The album kind of reminds me of electric Miles, but with drum'n'bass beats. I think a few other projects have tried to manage that same mix to varying degrees of success, but this one works well. I especially liked the shameless synth bass assault (pure sine waves baby!) filling out the frequency spectrum.
"Town Hall '62" Ornette Coleman. Kind of cheating since I'm already an Ornette freak, but I just discovered this recording of his trio (Charles Moffett on drums, David Izenzon on bass) which preceded the notable "Live at the Golden Circle" recordings by a few years. Interesting in that this is some of the first recordings since Ornette started adding trumpet and violin to his repertoire, and that he incorporates some strings into his pieces as well.
"Transrapid" Alva Noto. Glitches and beeps, but I love it. Nothing comes close to those collaborations he did with Ryuichi Sakamoto though; those recordings are the bees knees.

Ok I gotta type less and listen more!

On food and fusion...

2011-04-11T00:35:00.000-07:00

...not the nuclear kind, just the cultural one. Basically I'm trying to find a way to make this post seem like it's not about ramen (although admittedly, like most of the posts on this blog, it is). But it's soooo hard not to write about ramen! Okay, let's just look at some first:

This one happens to be from Q Go Ramen (1443 West Broadway). You most certainly don't need to read another online review of Q Go; about how the portions are huge, how they give you compimentary edamame, about how the broth and toppings can be hit and miss depending on which dish you order (although I've never been dissatisfied myself), as all you need to do is google a bit. Instead please note that the featured ingredient on this particular bowl or ramen is shredded cheese.

I first learned of cheese ramen from the menu at Kintaro (which I've been meaning to revisit for many months, but oh how I hate lineups, bad for a ramen-lover) and I have repeatedly enjoyed their version, which includes (if memory serves) both finely shredded and thinly sliced white cheese. Admittedly the cheese itself is generic enough that if we were but a few kilometres south (and saying "miles" instead of "kilometres") we'd be calling it "American cheese." Fortunately we're not. The menu listing at Kintaro mentions that "Ladies love it!" prompting Marie to give the nickname "Cheese Ramen" to a certain prominent Vancouver-based guitarist. I've since enjoyed versions of the dish served at Q Go and G-Men in Richmond.

Now at first, the idea of adding cheese to a bowl of ramen may seem strange. It definitely did to me at first, and continues to seem that way to Marie. But it didn't take me long to warm up to the taste, where the fine shreds melt into the (hopefully) painfully hot broth and produce a rich and creamy, slightly tangy texture. And it got me thinking about how cheese remains a bit of a novelty ingredient in Japanese cuisine. As lactose intolerance is commonplace among Asian people, dairy is not as widely used as in the West. In particular, cheese can be a bit of a tough sell for the Japanese palate, in the same way that natto, umeboshi, or takuan (which btw my daughter LOVES) could be for a typical Westerner. Traditionally speaking, topping a Japanese dish with shredded cheese might be akin to smearing wasabi onto your hamburger bun. But it's easy to forget that in spite of the purists and impassioned aficionados, ramen is fundamentally a fusion cuisine to begin with. Although it is undeniably a Japanese phenomenon, ramen in the eyes of the Japanese is a Japanese version of a Chinese dish. I remember being surprised to see ramen-ya in Osaka that had Chinese-style logos and mascots on the signage, before I knew what ramen really was. Even the side dishes betray their Chinese roots: potstickers (gyoza/ jiaozi) or steamed pork buns (nikuman/baozi). Okay, I know cheese is neither Japanese nor Chinese, but my point is that the fusion of cultures can open the door to new experiments. And this one happens to work.

I think that many great things in the world of food are the result of adapting one culture's cuisine to the ingredients or palate of another. There are of course numerous exceptions too, like the abomination that is "Pacific Rim fusion": people throwing wasabi or mirin on anything and calling it "Asian-influenced" but that does not deserve our focus here. I think I may have mentioned a similar thread talking about banh-mi earlier. I'm curious to find and identify more examples of successful cuisine fusions that have made a long-standing impact the same way that banh-mi or ramen have.

Alright I'm almost determined to write next time about music instead of just food and justify the latter part of the name of this blog. Right now I'm listening to Chicago Underground duo records ("Axis and Alignment" and "Synesthesia") and marvelling at how two people can play multiple instruments and make music that sounds improvised and composed at the same time. How do they overdub or multitrack such well-formed improvisations? Seems like a logical impossibility.

not dead yet - turkish pide

2011-02-09T23:21:00.000-08:00

Although I've let a significant length of time pass, I'm determined not to let this blog die a dishonourable death. It merely brings to light the fact that these pages were brought to life during a short (4-day) period in which I actually had time on my hands to kill, and that circumstance simply does not apply to real life.

The other day during the whole what-am-I-making-for-dinner rigmarole I decided on something pizza-like, but did not have anything to make tomato sauce with: namely, tomatoes. (Coincidentally, in the most literal sense of the word, my mother claims that she was thinking pizza and was trying her best to telepathically send that thought into my brain...) I remembered an experience while staying in Istanbul where our hosts decided to order in on a whim; it wasn't even mealtime, but they felt we needed to experience this particular aspect of Turkish cuisine. They phoned their local favourite, and within a short while a delivery arrived at our door: elongated rectangular cardboard boxes. We opened them to find a new kind of Turkish delight: pide.

FYI, it's pronounced kind of like how we say the word "pita" but with a bit softer t/d sound, even though it looks like "p-eye-d"

It really is basically a Turkish pizza: the dough is essentially the same yeasted flat bread, and you order different toppings as you like and can commonly order it for delivery. However, pide don't usually rely on a tomato-based sauce, and more noticeably, they are shaped into long boat-like figures capable of holding more substantial fillings rather than merely toppings. Two particularly distinct toppings we tried in Turkey were egg (cracked into the boat in the last few minutes of cooking) and pastirma, the smelliest most garlicky cured beef ever. Like many delicacies, pastirma is an acquired taste, but once you get it, you really get it.

So I decided that eating pide a few times in Turkey qualified me to make my own here at home (arrogant, I know). Basically I just made pizza dough, which was easy enough, and rolled them out into long rectangles (actually my daughter helped considerably in the rolling out). Next was layering some toppings (I borrowed from some Italian classics, but mostly just threw in whatever I had in the kitchen that would work - improvising!): mushrooms, bell pepper, some very dry salami, shredded cheese (I think I had asiago and jack cheese that day) some olives and anchovy fillets. Then the ends of the rectangle were folded up into points and the sides were folded partially over the toppings. I brushed the outside of the boat with egg wash and threw them in the hottest oven I could muster (the LED said 550F, who knows how close I actually got to that). After the pide had a few (maybe 5-10 min) to let the dough bake, I took them out to crack a raw egg into each one, then tossed them back in for a few more minutes to let the egg almost set. Aside: I don't own a pizza stone, and the floor of my oven to too filthy to put things directly on it, but I do own a fancy baking sheet thingy that has maybe a vacuum layer inside it or something? I'm not quite sure about the construction, but it is the most amazing thing ever, keeping the heat distribution even throughout the oven no matter what I'm baking. If I knew what it was,I would wholeheartedly endorse it to you, whoever you are.

Of course after pulling it out of the oven I was too eager to serve it, and so I silced it into pieces before remembering to take this picture, but you get the idea:

salami and egg pide

I kind of like how the toppings go in reverse from a pizza, with the cheese hidden in the lower decks of the boat, and having the egg add richness so that we don't really miss having lots of meat, just a few pieces of something salty (dry salami or anchovy) to give it some bite. FWIW the dough was made with a mix of organic unbleached white all-purpose and some local hard red spring whole wheat acquired through the amazing grain co-op Urban Grains.

Hmm, maybe next time I'll write about Japanese pizza: okonomiyaki. Especially since there is no decent okonomiyaki served in Vancouver to my knowledge (except my house maybe). Although I'd love to be proven wrong there.

P.S. I just finished reading Jeffery Steingarten's latest article on hand-pulled noodles in NYC. Inexplicably, the table of contents in Vogue blurbs about Steingarten eating "pasta" and not Chinese noodles. The article reminded me that the Sha-lin Noodle House on Broadway is closed, thanks to a neighboring fire. Does anyone know if they have set up shop in a new location or anything? Are there any other hand-pulled noodle shops in the city?

Possibly the easiest thing to make for dinner

2010-12-30T00:01:00.000-08:00

Like many people, I suffer the regular ebb and flow of creativity and productivity in life, and in particular when figuring out what to make for dinner. Sometimes ideas possess me, and other times I'm desperate to just make something, anything that we can all eat and enjoy. We all have our staple, go-to dishes to fall back on, but the struggle is to avoid falling back on them too often.

Enter the world of bibimbap. Essentially it's mixed vegetables on rice, but you can "dress it up or down" as your time/energy/creativity fit. Apparently (although I speak no Korean) "bibim" means mix and "bap" is for rice. More specifically, the vegetables are in the form of namool, which are different salad-ish dishes. For example, common namool could include soy bean sprouts blanched and seasoned with sesame oil, braised fiddleheads (bracken fern), pickled daikon radish, or shredded wakame (young kelp) seaweed. At it's most basic, bibimbap is assembled by topping a bowl of hot rice with various namool and a bit of kochu jang (Korean hot pepper paste) and then mixed all together.

Admittedly, preparing a five or six different vegetable dishes for the purpose of mixing them together is not necessarily a quick and easy task, so why is this supposed to be an easy dinner solution? Because of Kim's Mart (519 E Broadway) that's why. For $5.99 the good folks at this Korean grocery store will make six different namool and package them with a small cup of kochu jang, requiring you to merely press "start" on the rice cooker at home. (I meant to have a picture here for you but I forgot to take it. I'll try to add it in again the next time we eat bibimbap.) The package contains enough namool to feed about four people, maybe more especially if you dress it up a bit. Which leads me to...

Upgrades! Now you can add-on to this meal of convenience as your time and energy allow. I will commonly add egg, either a fried egg (sunny, hold the wiggle) on each bowl, or cooked in omelet sheets and sliced into thin shreds. Also, if i can work it out, some meat (usually beef, but chicken and pork work well too) sautéed with some sweetened soy sauce (like soy sauce with some green onion, ginger, grated apple, garlic, sesame oil and sugar) but it's really not necessary and we would only use a tiny bit anyways. I like to add some nori cut into thin strips (like about 3mm x 25mm) but I don't always have the patience to cut it up.

So really, what could be easier than washing some rice in the morning, setting the timer on your rice cooker, and stopping by the grocery store on your way home? This post was composed to convince Tina to try it.

Side Note: My first taste of bibimbap was enjoyed in Japan in 2000, thanks to Mark who took us to a Korean restaurant. They specialized in a variant called dolsot bibimbap which is served in a stone bowl which has been heated up to the point where it essentially fries the rice for you after it has been served to you. It comes topped with a raw egg, which also cooks from the heat of the bowl once you mix it up. My favourite part was the little browned bits of chili-coated rice that stuck to the stone, like what the French would call fond (pan scapings) but what Mark taught us is called koge in Japanese. Why isn't there a word for this in English? We ate dolsot bibimbap a few more times during that visit to Japan including once at a mall food court, and I kept thinking "They would never serve this in a Canadian mall, imagine carrying a red-hot stone bowl to your table on a flimsy plastic tray. A safety hazard for sure!" Yet upon our return I was pleasantly surprised to see a Korean food stall at the Yaohan food court in Richmond serving it. The first time I ordered it there, the proprietor (upon sizing me up as a non-Korean) made sure to remind me to bring the bowl back to them after eating.

Banh Mi and being a "regular"

2010-12-10T00:41:00.000-08:00

Seeing as how my mandate here is food and music, I should clarify that this post is not about "being regular" which has a distinctly different connotation than "being a regular."

On to business. Marie is convinced that it is because of my shaved head (and possibly implicitly, my big ears) that I am easily recognized and remembered. I raise this point because this post is actually about my absolute favourite place in Vancouver to get banh mi (Vietnamese subs.) Coincidentally it is also (I just remembered) the very first place I ever ate one (many thanks to Steve Balogh, who lived around the corner at the time). Truong Giang Vietnamese Sandwich is right on East Hastings near Dunlevy, and although I've never seen more than two customers in there at a time, they still manage to make fresh and tasty banh mi every time i'm there.

I remember the first few times eating there getting the same once-over stare from the owner/proprietors (I'm dead sure it's a literal mom and pop operation, it's always the same couple manning the place) but over time they have come to recognize me, to the point now where I get warm smiles and hellos, even immediately after another customer gets the old once-over in front of me. They know how I like to order: no onions, extra spicy (sliced chilli peppers). They were super excited to meet my daughter the other day, as they have a daughter of their own, who is now old enough to work at the till in the restaurant. (aside: This girl can't be more than 12 years old, and she is the epitome of good restaurant service: friendly, efficient and confident. I hope I can be a good enough parent to raise a child as together as she.)

Here's the thing: I maybe visit that place a few times a year, tops. Maybe I went slightly more often ten years ago, but since then, I think it would not be far off to say that a year could pass without me eating there. I've never introduced myself, or even small-talked with them while visiting. (Although there was one occasion where I ran into the husband/father at the vet.) Yet they still recognize me whenever I go. I'd like to say that these are people-persons, and that's why they take the time to remember customers who return, even only sporadically. But, it could be because of my haircut...

Here's the special sub, I think it's $3.50

You don't need me to tell you why Vietnamese subs are a contender for the perfect food, but I might remind you anyway. In spite of it's history of brutality and ignorance of human rights, colonialism has produced some incredible cultural mixings and developments (Hello, jazz music!). Here the French occupation has left Vietnam with the best bread and coffee in Asia. Somehow banh mi manage to have a bun that is crispy, light and hearty at the same time. Couple that with pickled veggies, some cold cuts or shredded meat, and some cilantro garnish, and bob's your uncle. Although I'm not much of a coffee drinker (I enjoy the taste, but never understood the habit of drinking coffee every day) I will not turn down an opportunity (although they are rare) to savour two kinds of coffee: Turkish coffee (in a tiny demitasse glass with the superfine grounds mixed in at the bottom) and Vietnamese "French" ice coffee (dripped over sweetened condensed milk then poured into a glass filled with ice.)

Almost every time I eat there (or take out) I try to imagine if there were any occasion/event I could use as an excuse to get Truong Giang to cater. Partly because I'd love for them to have the business (although they've been there for this long, they must be doing okay) and partly because how cool would it be to attack a stack of 50 banh mi.

The yardstick to measure by: Ippudo NY

2010-12-01T00:05:00.000-08:00

What got me on this New York ramen obsession in the first place was the opening of the North America's first Ippudo Ramen in NYC, just before I visited the city with the whole family. Conveniently located in the Lower East Side, close to but not on St. Mark's where the centre of Japanese cuisine and culture resides in NYC, Ippudo was the closest thing to a real Japanese ramen-ya experience I've had on this side of the world. However it's not a typical ramen-ya in that it feels more like a modern hip bistro (with fancy nouveau appys and cocktails) than a cramped fast food joint (where you shut up, eat your noodles and get out). We liked Ippudo so much we ate there twice during that visit.

So it was fitting that the final bowl of ramen during this trip would be there, a full circle of NY ramen as it were. Sharon and I met in front of the restaurant right when they opened for dinner at 5pm (and there were already people lining up to get in, I've passed by the place at various times and never seen the place less than full) and were seated right away at a large communal table.

Since it was my last New York meal for a while, we splurged for a nice shochu cocktail (complete with half a fresh grapefruit and a juicer to do the work yourself) and some appy's, the avocado tofu tartare (basically avocado topped hiya-yakko-dofu) and yamaimo isobe (mountain yam, very crispy and fresh, topped with masago). They were tasty, but IMHO overpriced.

Shochu with freshly squeezed grapefruit

Yamaimo Isobe

Then the main event; Sharon and I both ordered the Akamaru Modern, which is tonkotso broth with a little ball of red miso on top, to mix in yourself. Although the standard toppings were a little skimpy (I think they are assuming you will order your own add-ons, although I prefer the aesthetic where the chef serves the bowl complete, as he/she wants you to enjoy it) they were well presented and tasty. I should remember to ask for a side order of the kakuni (pork belly) as there just wasn't enough in bowl to start.

Ippudo's Akamaru Modern

Speaking of not enough in the bowl, again I needed to order kaedama to fill me up. It's actually kind of fun to eat your noodles, and pace your soup to gauge whether or not you will be hungry enough to order another serving of noodles to add to it. The surprise was that Sharon also opted for kaedama, although she was regretting it by the end of the meal. ("Eyes are bigger than your stomach" was a phrase that I absolutely did not understand throughout my childhood, although I heard my parents say it enough times) The unanimous kaedama orders were not a complaint, they were in fact a compliment to the excellent noodles, made in the basement! Hakata-style, they were the thin straight kind, but just the perfect amount of toothiness to them, without any doughy or floury taste.

All told the bill for the two us came to nearly $80, which was a huge shock. I guess the add-ons like drinks and appy's really add up quick, but it was a real contrast to the other ramen-ya from this week. Definitely a tasty meal, but it reinforces the idea that ramen pricing in this city seems pretty arbitrary; there is no guarantee that a $14 bowl will taste any better than a $9 one. But I guess wine is the same isn't it? It's all about packaging and marketing, and Ippudo certainly has those things on it's side. The restaurant itself is by far the most elaborately (and beautifully) designed and decorated, and the hype machine seems to support that it's the "hot" place to eat ramen.

Finally: Totto Ramen

2010-11-30T23:27:00.001-08:00

I was determined: it was my final day in NYC (my plane left JFK at 10pm) and it gave me a narrow window of opportunity to attempt to eat a bowl of Totto Ramen. I don't even know what the big deal about Totto was, except that the same owners already had a successful yakitori restaurant in midtown, and there is a perpetual crush at the door. If anything the crowds can be explained by the fact that the ramen-ya barely seats 16 people.

The place opened for lunch right at 12pm and by the time I arrived there at 11:45am there was already (surprise) a crowd out front. I wrote my name on the clipboard hanging on the front door, and joined the crowd (well, not literally; no one would talk to me, lest I might steal their place in line). Luckily I was within the first 20-odd people to write their names down, as I was seated in the first wave of customers, all on their lunch breaks. I hopped up to the bar and placed my bag, hat and scarf (hey it's cold on those Manhattan streets) on the little wire rack above our heads.

Totto's ramen seems to specialize in a chicken broth shoyu ramen. I ordered the Totto Spicy Ramen ($10.25) which is basically their chicken shoyu (called Paitan) ramen with a big ball of their own chili garlic oil/paste (rayu) dolloped on top. The noodles are made in-house and are the thin straight kind. If you order the thick wavy noodles, the chef reaches below the counter and pulls out a plastic-wrapped package of noodles from a box.

The toppings are minimal: a few thin pieces of charsiu, some bean sprouts, a bunch of sliced scallions and the requisite nori square. But the rayu chili garlic blob in the middle was what elevated the basic ingredients to a thoroughly enjoyable bowl. I find that most things labelled spicy fall in to one of two categories: either it's got nice "spicy" taste but is not actually that hot, or it's so hot that you can't really taste anything but pain. The latter is far more rare in restaurants than the former (unless it's a "eat this and your meal is free" kind of attention-getting gimmick) but even more rare is the foodstuff which can combine the best of both: hot enough to really kick your ass but with enough actual flavour to make it worth the pain. Totto's rayu has this in spades, with a nutty garlicky aftertaste that lingered for longer than I would have liked were I a single man.

I have to admit that I am beginning to really like the hakata-style thinner noodles, especially when they are made just downstairs from where you are eating them, and they are cooked to perfect al dente.

In spite of the repeated failed attempts to get in to this place, once I was in, I was treated with great service both from the wait staff and the ramen chefs working directly in front of me. Friendly and efficient, the service accompanied me through the meal in less than 30 minutes without me feeling rushed. All the better for the next round of customers waiting at the door!

Jazz in NYC

2010-11-30T23:09:00.000-08:00

I'm actually back in Vancouver now, but I haven't had a chance to relay my last few experiences in NYC so here's a little bit of catch-up. It is now dawning on me how big the Thanksgiving holiday really is for Americans. This weekend has been as close to a standstill as I've ever seen Manhattan, excepting the "black friday" sales. An additional effect of this holiday is that less music happens in town, I've learned. Which has been good and bad. So far, the Maria Schneider Orchestra has been the only show I really enjoyed.

On the final night of my visit, I had originally planned to see two shows, but strangely ran out of time (and possibly energy) and so just caught the second of the two. You may notice that I am side-stepping the naming of names, possibly to protect the innocent, or to protect myself. The show that Sharon and I did see in the end was at a club that we have both frequented before, and both seen amazing shows at. This night, however, was not one those shows. Let me be clear: it was not a bad set of music by any stretch. These were professional musicians who are obviously able to make a living in New York, and that's no mean feat. But hearing them play did put a few things into perspective. They demonstrated for example that you can play at a high level of technical proficiency and still have gaping holes in your technique. Or that you can have a masterful command of style and idiom, and still lack a personal voice or an interesting narrative in your improvisation. And that even though people paid $20 cover, you can go up on stage and look at your bandmates saying "What do you guys feel like playing" to decide on your set.

I heard a piano player who knew what the jazz was supposed to sound like, but couldn't accurately get his fingers to make that happen. I heard a drummer play all the right notes at the right time, but all at the same volume (loud) all the way through every tune (except for his solo, which was louder). I heard a horn player calling tunes and playing them just fine, but with no real fire or energy or spontaneous interplay between accompanists and soloist. And I heard a great bass player (what can I say, he played great). It made me realize that in order to play the music I want to play, I need to address the issues in my technique (through practice and study), I need to make my instrument play music instead of just sounds, I need to put time and thought into writing and choosing repertoire, and never phone it in. At least I hope the band had fun and supported each other in their journey.

So now it's back to Vancouver and time to put those realizations to good use! Wish me luck.

Minca and another missed opportunity

2010-11-28T23:20:00.001-08:00

I mis-timed my day and since it takes quite a while to get to midtown or below I ended up trying to get into Totto at about 8:30 tonight, and of course was greeted by the same crowd waiting for their tables. I figured it about a 1-1.5hr wait, so I hopped back on the train to the lower East side to try Kambi's sister restaurant Minca. Once I found it (a tiny bit off the beaten track) I got a seat immediately (luckily I don't really care if the place is hot/popular right now, I'm only here for a few days and I just want a good bowl of ramen). The staff here, like at Kambi, are all Korean, or at least they are all speaking Korean to each other. I decided to keep trying different types of ramen, so tonight was my first bowl of Tokyo style shoyu ramen, including a broth made from chicken and dried seafood. Apparently mixed-type broths are a big thing in Japan now. I finally got to have my thick wavy noodles, since Minca lets you mix and match your noodles, charsiu and soup.

It's actually called "Wahoo" ramen on the menu

A well constructed and presented bowl, the soup was both flavourful and light, successfully avoiding the saltiness or blandness I sometime find with Tokyo style. The pork charsiu was very tender, so much so in fact that it fell apart in the bowl, and so was a little difficult to eat. There were also generous portions of menma and wood ear mushroom on top. The noodles were fine, maybe a tiny tiny bit overcooked as I like some chewiness to my noodles.

Still not my favourite bowl, and making me set on trying Totto tomorrow for a last attempt at the perfect NYC ramen bowl.

Burger overload: Stand

2010-11-28T22:33:00.000-08:00

I was surprised that Sharon was willing to join me for another burger mission. I realize that I've been packing a lot of the same meals (i.e. burgers and ramen, but not together) in the last few days, and you (well, most of you, but apparently not me) can only eat so much of that before you explode. After a very inspiring Shake Shack experience the other day, Sharon was game to try my next suggestion: Stand burgers near Union Square. We actually wandered down the wrong street (11th instead of 12th) until a call to information revealed that I had written the wrong address into the iPod Touch serving as my note pad (thanks to my fat fingers or the stupid iPod on-screen keyboard. Who should I blame?)

Apparently Stand is from the same guy who started Republic noodle house way back when. Some of my earliest memories of NY include visits to Republic, although it's not ramen, but (gasp) "pan-asian" noodles. Anyhoo, Sharon realized that she actually wanted salmon, and we were pleased to learn (after the waitress inquired in the kitchen for us) that the salmon burger uses wild pacific salmon. I ordered the classic burger, with blue cheese. We also split a small order fries, onion rings and (at my insistence) fried tempura-battered pickles!

The burger included a sizable patty, cooked more or less medium rare as I asked, although to be very picky, it was more medium than rare. Unfortunately the patty was just too much (and too juicy) for the poor bun to handle, and by the time I was halfway through the burger, the bun was dangerously unhelpful. The bun sure looked pretty at first though. The plate also included a little ramekin filled with a dark red paste which I mistook for ketchup, but after tasting it I guessed it was maybe barbeque sauce. Don't know why that was there like that. Not to complain too much, but I think when you want blue cheese on a burger, it's because you (me I mean) want that stinky, strong flavour to punch through the savouriness of the beef. I don't know if Stand uses a mild type of blue, or they just didn't add enough, but I just couldn't taste it in the burger. In every other way the burger was tasty, but not well constructed.

These fries were easily the best I've had on this trip, and on par with the best I've ever had. They definitely took a page from the original Belgian frite. (Aside: while touring Belgium, every time I would eat fries someone would inevitably inform me that fries are a Belgian creation, not French as we "Americans" might believe) They were at least double fried, crispy and perfectly seasoned. Served in a cone, Belgian-style too.

The onion rings were great too. What can I say, they're onion rings. Sharon observed that onions are among the cheapest ingredient you can buy, and yet onion rings are disproportionately expensive. Why is that?

The surprise hit here was the fried pickles. I'm not sure what "Bread and Butter" pickles are (although a quick googling later will sort that out I'm sure) but they were sliced and dipped in tempura batter before being deep fried and served to us on a plate with some mustard-y mayo to dip them in. It sounds wrong but it tastes so right. I wish someone would make these at a restaurant in Vancouver. I might shop the idea around and see if anyone bites (pun intended, with apologies to those with actual wit.)

My only regret was taking the suggestion to try the special shake of the day: pistachio cookie. Luckily I asked for the mini size. I think I could have enjoyed a pistachio milkshake, but this one had that foamy fake shake mouthfeel that I associate with chain restaurant shakes, and to add insult to injury they piled a heap of cookie crumbs on the top of it. Waaaaaaaay to sweet for my taste but I should have known better. The Shake Shack coffee shake ruined me for other shakes.

Overall it was an enjoyable experience, and if I returned I'd be game to try some of the special burgers on the menu.

Maria Schneider Orchestra

2010-11-28T22:04:00.000-08:00

I'm running a little behind, but here's my run down of last night's music set. After filling our bellies with hakata style ramen, Sharon and I decided to walk it off, and headed down to 27th and Lexington to Jazz Standard where Maria Schneider's Orchestra plays every Thanksgiving weekend. We dropped the ball and did not make reservations early on, so there was only room left in the third set, starting at 11:30. Even that show was still packed, and we sat in a tiny table beside a column in between the two sections of the room. Although Sharon needed a coffee to wake up, I was pleased to see a few Belgian ales on the menu, and enjoyed a few Leffe Blonde (although I would have had the Leffe Brun if they carried it.)

After the last few nights of music, I was really hoping for a great set and I was not disappointed. Maria Schneider leads a great ensemble with strong soloists, and uses the band members in very interesting combinations to orchestrate her voicings. Now, I'll admit that my harmonic vocabulary is limited at best, but I can at least recognize the colours that her compositions utilize as unique. From what I understand she is considered the curent torch-bearer of the Gil Evans school of writing, which makes sense to me: taking his concepts of arranging and extending them into her own style.

I did notice that many of the pieces felt basically like vehicles (frameworks, maybe?) for the soloists, in that two or three band members are featured and the full ensemble playing is used as more a background and send-off rather than a full statement of a theme (head) upon which the improvisers extrapolate on.

The fine soloists included Frank Kimbrough on piano, Lage Lund on guitar, Ingrid Jensen on trumpet and Steve Wilson on soprano saxophone. However the standouts for me were Marshall Gilkes on trombone and Scott Robinson on baritone saxophone. When the trombonist stood up to play, I was very very pleasantly surprised to hear him play with a post-modern concept, which is rare (and very difficult) to do on that instrument. He executed lines like pentatonic patterns with command and accuracy, and incredible feat on trombone!

Funny coincidence: the bari player was also the leader of the band I saw at the Stone the night before. It was very interesting to hear the same musician in two very different situations. At the Stone he played a wide variety of instruments, including laser-triggered bell samples, car horns, sopranino saxophone and contrabass clarinet. At Jazz Standard he played an interesting and unique solo on bari, using timbre and altissimo range to develop the improvisation. It was certainly add odds with the other, more bebop/eighth note line-oriented approaches of his bandmates.

Another strength of the ensemble was hearing their dynamic range, especially when used as a device to shape the solo sections. Drummer Clarence Penn began the set barely touching the drums, but still grooving. I appreciated that sense of musicality in a large ensemble, where the potential for dynamics ranges from complete silence to screaming wall of sound. Most big bands stay in the loud to louder area, and rarely venture from it.

I'm happy that I got to hear at least one show that I really enjoyed while visiting NYC this time. It's been a learning experience coming hear and listening to a wide range of things, in quality and style, even within each band playing.

Midtown ramen: east vs. west

2010-11-28T16:12:00.000-08:00

Next up in the ramen tour was a toss up between two spots on opposite sides of 52nd Street. Apropos of this I recall my very first visit to New York and how excited I was to see W 52nd St, the location of all the classic bebop night clubs during the late 30's and early 40's. Imagine the disappointment in finding that there is absolutely no remnant of that scene in that street today (save I think a tiny placard mentioning Dizzy Gillespie). So far all the noodles have been from the East Village, so I was curious how midtown would fare (assuming they primarily cater to midtown workers' lunch).

We hopped on the subway over to the west side first, to find Totto Ramen (W52nd btwn 8th & 9th) to be greeted by this:

Literally a crush at the door!

We signed our name on the list at the front, noting that there were a good number of people ahead of us. After hemming and hawing and stalling for a few minutes, we realized that if we committed to waiting here we may not make it the Jazz Standard in time for our 11:30 reservation to see Maria Schneider (post to follow). A quick phone call to information, and an executive decision was made to jump in a cab crosstown to Hide-chan (E 52nd at 2nd ave). Within minutes we were warmly welcomed and seated. Although I've still been craving the thick wavy noodles typical of miso ramen, I couldn't pass up the opportunity to try the unique sounding kuroramen (black ramen). The "kuro" comes from the black sesame and garlic oil that they top the bowl with, and it's really black.

Hide-chan's Kuroramen

The sesame garlic gave a very warm dark nuttiness to the broth, which was flavourful but otherwise light. The thin hakata style noodles were just al dente enough to give some bite, and made me forget my craving for the thick wavy kind. However, there just weren't enough noodles in my bowl (although there was generous soup) and a kaedama (second helping of noodles) was in order. With the extra noodles it was exactly the right balance. A very enjoyable meal.

I do have to mention that although we were greeted very warmly (and in Japanese, which is a good sign since it means they get mostly Japanese customers), by the time we were finishing up our meals I got a lot of strange stares from the staff as they walked by our table, as if to try and hurry us out the door. The room was barely a third full, so it's not like they needed the space. But we were a table of two without getting drinks, so maybe they wrote us off as a cheap waste of time. Just wondering.

After that, we split for Maria Schneider, I'll post about this next!

Street food interlude

2010-11-27T17:04:00.000-08:00

Walking through Soho trying to find out what "heat-generating clothing" is, I realized I needed a nosh, and there it was: the Tribeca Taco truck sitting right on Broadway. I had thought about attacking some street food on this trip, but realized I can only eat so much and would focus on ramen and burgers for now. However, opportunity reared its ugly head and I ordered the truck's namesake ($2.50), which is a soft taco filled with carne asado and spiced chicken, topped with lettuce, onions, cilantro and sauce (I picked Chipotle cream).

With the lime and sliced radish garnish, the taco actually reminded me (especially the smell) of Vietnamese pho or banh mi. It was messy, tasty and just the right size to tide me over till the next meal. It worked out very well as I soon would face a 30min+ wait for the A train back uptown, and I would have been a grumpy gus to do it on an empty stomach.

Friday night in NYC

2010-11-27T16:49:00.000-08:00

Ok I meant to post about music too, but so far it's been pretty a bit difficult to find good things to write about. I'll attribute it to the Thanksgiving long weekend, but I haven't really heard anything that's blown me away yet. Although no show has really got me so far, I can recall the parts of each show that did (in order to avoid casting negativity on the parts that absolutely didn't):

Tom Harrell, pretty much everything about his playing. His tone, his solos, his tunes, all very inspiring.

The drummer and electric bassist at the 55bar last night. I didn't catch their names, but they were trying some cool things that I don't hear often. They had a neat way of starting/ending/accenting lines in places that don't occur to bread-and-butter jazz players, but would to someone who is immersed in beat-driven electronic music. Very interesting.

Marshall Allen on EVI (not EWI as was listed in the program). I liked it for a while, but by the end of the set I was done with it. It does seem like an interesting interface for controlling electronic sound though. More so than the EWI I think.

I regret missing Kenny Werner play solo piano at Kitano, but I can only be in so many places at a time, and I really wanted to at least experience the Stone for once.

Hopefully I'll have more music to write about soon.

Secret Burger

2010-11-27T15:40:00.000-08:00

After hearing about the "hidden" burger joint in the lobby of the Parker Meridien Hotel, I had to check it out. It really was exactly as it was described to me: walk through a fancy hotel lobby, until you see dark hallway behind the check-in desk, lit only by a little neon sign in the shape of a burger. At the end of the hall you're greeted by a little room completely incongruous with the building it's set in: straight up burger bar, complete with booths, stools and writing all over the wooden walls. There's a handwritten sign giving your instructions ("Know what you want to order or go the end of the line!" kind of stuff.) I joined the queue, which went from the middle of the back wall to the entranceway, and took only a few minutes to order: cheeseburger, medium rare, with everything hold the onions, and fries ($12). I stood around in a very small space for a few minutes more until the cook yells my name, and proceeded to find a stool at a little bar sandwiched between a family from San Francisco and a Korean tourist couple. I think this place is in the guide books, but who cares?

It tastes better than it looks.

Blame my photography skills.

The construction reminded me a bit of In'n'Out, and the way the condiments mixed was also reminiscent of In'n'Out's "sauce." However the patty was much more substantial, and amazingly managed to be thick without being to ball-shaped which meant that it was easy to eat. I find that some "gourmet" burger types like to do a huge thick patty but do not consider how the customer is actually supposed to eat it: in particular the middle is super thick, but tapers quickly to the outside, not to mention as a result it is too small for the bun. Not so at this burger joint. To top it off, the burger was exactly medium rare, and managed to have substantial charring on the outside, so thumbs up all around. The fries were skinny McD-type frozen fries; edible, but nothing to write home about (yet here I am).

Having just tried Shake Shack I think I'm not 100% sold on the Parker-Meridien burger joint, but I sure wouldn't discount it if I were hungry mid-town.

Setagaya revisited, kind of.

2010-11-26T23:53:00.000-08:00

Tonight I stopped by Setagaya Ramen (34 St Mark's Place) in the East Village (where else?) for a bowl. I really like walking along St. Mark's especially at night, as it reminds me of Harajuku in Tokyo. I once again had some pretty good timing getting there as I could sit right away, although I guess it's easy when eating alone at a ramen-ya. Something about the place was eerily familiar, but I was sure that I hadn't been to this place before. Eventually it dawned on me that Setagaya used to be around the corner on 1st Ave, but that place has been replaced by Kuidouraku Ramen. There is apparently a long story behind the lineage of both places and their relationship, but I won't go into it. On to the food:

A creature of habit, I had the spicy miso ramen ($11), no sides, although they offer things like onigiri as well. It was reassuring to see two Japanese boys manning the kitchen (call me racist) as I think this was the first time since beginning the tour.

Okay first off, the real star of this show is the charsiu. Perfectly tender, the exact right meat to fat ratio (for me it's about 45/55) and very well charred around the outside. Tasty! If only I could get a bowl of Kambi's soup topped with Setagaya's charsiu and filled with the right curly chewy noodles, which I haven't yet found in this city. I remember Ippudo having very nice noodles like that in their miso ramen (where it's supposed to be) but Marie tells me that they've changed their noodles and now are all the straight thinner kind (can someone verify this in case I can't go there in the next few days?).

The last time I was in New York my daughter and I tried Setagaya at the old location for lunch. We had shio ramen (she doesn't like spicy... yet) and it was too light for my taste, but I probably just haven't found my way with shio broth... yet. The spicy miso broth at Setagaya was decent, but not the creamy experience of Kambi. The noodles were okay too, but I'm hoping to find some real in-house made noodles before I leave New York. I think next up is mid-town ramen if it works out.

Burger time - Shake Shack

2010-11-26T14:55:00.000-08:00

So my first non-ramen attempt: Madison Square Park's Shake Shack. I checked the line up (read reports of 45min waits) on the website's Shackcam (very helpful) and saw it was a good time to go, so this afternoon we headed down to the park and lined up, waiting maybe 20 minutes between getting there and eating food. It was a bit cold to eat outside, but the real hazards were the many birds sitting the trees above the seating area. We saw a fellow diner get a guano-bomb on his noggin while trying to eat!

Sharon and I both braved the Shack Stack, with fries. The Shack Stack is apparently a cheeseburger with a cheese-stuffed, deep fried portobello mushroom "hidden" inside. Marie had urged me to try the frozen custard, so in spite of the cold, I also tried a Fair Shake: custard milkshake with a shot fair trade coffee in it. The fries are a dense crinkle-cut, but they hold the ketchup very well.

I thought the stack would be an exercise in decadence, but in spite of it's appearance when served, it was actually a well-portioned, and once squished for consumption, well-proportioned burger. Not nearly as hard to eat as it looked at first. And very very tasty. The deep fried bread crumb coating on the mushroom provides some crunch and char-ish flavour to bring out the beefiness of the patty. Immediately after eating ours, Sharon and I looked at each other and said "I could eat another one these right now." The shake was tasty, no chain-restaurant fake milk shake aftertaste here. But basically frozen custard is French vanilla: ice cream made with cooked egg and cream instead of just cream. It was too cold outside to try just a cup or cone of the stuff, maybe next visit. If I go back this weekend I'll try just the regular Shackburger.

Although it seems easy to baulk at $17 for a burger, fries and drink, I felt so satisfied afterwards that I can easily say it was worth every penny.

The guy in the middle of this pic is the one who got shat on.

NYC Ramen/Burger Tour 2010 - pt 2 Kambi

2010-11-26T14:39:00.000-08:00

After wandering downtown for a while (in the rain, on Thanksgiving) I made my way back to the East Village for Kambi, apparently from the same owners as Minca around the corner. Being a holiday, I managed to just get in before they were closing (last order!).

Had their "Basic Spicy Ramen" which looks like tonkotsu broth with spicy miso or kochhu jang. There were some pan-fried bean sprouts on top, along with the menma, some wood-ear mushroom and nori. The charsiu was very tender, and they blowtorched it a bit before serving so it had some nice char-flavour to it. But the real star was the broth: so smooth and well-balanced it tasted creamy. Any more fat and it would have been greasy, but as served it was just perfect. Too bad the noodles were run-of-the-mill packages. Stiff with no chewiness, they were fortunately not bad enough to ruin the excellent broth. I kind of feel like the differences in price from ramen-ya to ramen-ya are artibrary: $11 got me just the bowl here, no sides.

If there is time this weekend, I will try their sister restaurant Minca.

After filling my belly (and closing the restaurant) headed back to the Village to hear Tom Harrell at the Vanguard. What a sound! But the rest of the band was not to my liking, just personal taste I guess. When we got home we tried listening to that band's latest album, but it was the same: not to my liking.

NYC Ramen/Burger Tour 2010 - Rai Rai Ken

2010-11-26T14:13:00.000-08:00

After a surprisingly sleep-filled red-eye flight (thank you Sony noise-reducing earphones!) I arrived around 6:30am at JFK. A long ride on the A train took me to Sharon's place in the Fort Washington area (very nice apartment!) and we headed out for a diner breakfast. I won't post about that here, I'll just keep to the topic at hand: ramen!

The first bowl was from Rai Rai Ken (214 E 10th Street) in the East Village (home to most of the ramen-ya in NYC). Coincidentally directly beside a Japanese curry rice place that I tried the last time i was here. It was a no-frills, non-trendy Tokyo style ramen-ya. Had the curry ramen, which was a very nice surprise. Broth was currylicious, but not too salty nor too curry-sludgy. Charsiu was a little tough though, and the noodles are servicable, but not outstanding. Not overpriced for $11 with a side of gyoza (nothing special) or seafood chahan (Sharon and I shared each).

Usually when I try and make curry ramen I add too much leftover curry sauce, and it just becomes a thick sludgy mess, so this was a nice contrast. I spent a few hours walking around the East Village, NoHo, Soho, Tribeca, Greenwich Village and Chelsea after that working up an appetite for the next bowl! It was weird wandering Manhattan on Thanksgiving night. The streets were relatively empty, and of course all the stores and restaurants were closed. I was going to have a burger for dinner, but couldn't find an open one (I forgot to to check Veselka -they were open. Next time.)